The length of the machine is about 45 feet long, and it could make 30 stockings concurrently. The company started out in its early days making a single section which made one stocking. Soon after machines added length, to make 15 (half section machines) stockings, and then went to full section machines (thirty stockings).

Tragically, there are fewer than ten working machines in the world today! We know of many inactive machines, however, the skilled technicians required to program the timing chains and maintain the machines have long gone.

What about the needles?
A 60 gauge machine with a full head of needles has about 600 needles per head. Since 600 x 30 heads comes to 18,000 needles, knitting this ultra luxury produced became an incredible challenge. These needles cost approximately five cents each. That means it can cost up to $9,000 in needles alone!

Lanolizing
This is a natural chemical process added to the dye bath to improve the look, feel, and wear of the stocking. Lanolin is a natural substance found in the animal fat of sheep that is used in soap and hair conditioner products. Manufacturers used different degrees of lanolin application to their hosiery. The most famous was "Albert's". Their stockings were called, "Velvetized", and contained a heavy lanoline treatment. Albert's stockings are highly prized for their high sheen and velvet touch. Hanes and others also used this process effectively.

Modern stockings use silicon to achieve the same effect. Because the lanolin has adverse effects on the Lycra that is knit into almost all modern hosiery lanolin is rarely used in modern hosiery.

Temperature Control
51 gauge machines are not as fussy as the 60 gauge machines. They will run cold or hot. The tolerances are not nearly as precise as the 60 gauge. 60 gauge machines have more needles at a closer tolerance than the 51 gauge machines. A closer tolerance on the set up, or gauging must be kept to maintain manufacturing tolerances. Factories must maintain the temperature (summer and winter) within 4 degrees, 74 to 78 degrees. Very difficult! When it gets below 74, the machines won't knit properly, over 78 and the same problem occurs. You may have 5 or 6 good stockings out of 30. The others are unusable!

Every pattern is on a continual chain of 120 feet and about 8" wide which has studs pressed into the links. These studs tell the machine what it should do, so every design needs a new stud pattern, which is a hugely complicated operation.

After manufacture each stocking is seamed, one at a time. People often ask why there is a hole at the top of the seam. This is called the 'finishing loop', or "key hole back", which cannot be eliminated as the seaming machinist has to finish the seam turning the stocking top, otherwise known as the welt, inside out.

Every stocking is manufactured white, or "in the greige", and must be piece dyed, as a finished garment to the desired color. They must then be "boarded", a process where each stocking is pulled over a flat metal leg form, and heat set with steam. This tightens the knit, defines the leg shape correctly and removes creases. Thereafter each stocking is checked for size to ensure that pairs match. Quality control for faults, large and small, can result in a loss of a third of production.

Circular Knit Stockings
Modern stockings and pantyhose are knit on circular machines eliminating need for the back seam. Circular knit stockings originally were made with reinforced heel and toes, this was accomplished by using a "reticulating heel" machine, also made by Reading. This machine actually knit the heel pocket into the stockings using a devise that knit the foot first, then the heel pocket and finally the leg and welt. This created the "V" in the heel that we all know and love.

During the early years of circular knit stockings, the heels and toes were reinforced similarly to the original full fashioned stockings, this gave the consumer the assurance that sharp nails or rough shoes would not cause the stockings to run. Later stockings were knit with different types of reinforcements on the toes and heels, eventually all reinforcements we discontinued!

Stockings reinforcements evolved from standard circular toes to tear drop toes, a toe that was seamed under the foot and looked like a teardrop, Demi-toes, a very dressy look with a 1/2 toe reinforcement, and finally to sandal foot with a nude toe for sandals. Heels also evolved from fully reinforced heels to the scalloped heel, and eventually, to evolve finally to the nude heel, and again to the fully nude, sandal foot stocking.

What about the different types of knits?
Regular flat knit: This is the original knit made on all stockings until 1945. It is a smooth stitch that is silky and soft to the touch. It has a wonderful shine and is the premier knitting technique of the era.

Kant run: This knit was developed to help prevent runs in the stockings. It is a lock-stitch and has a slightly rougher texture.

Micromesh: This stitch was developed to create a matte finish on the stocking that was very popular during the 60's. It is soft and smooth, but not as silky as regular flat knit.

Pebble mesh: A very rough knit to prevent runs used in teen and utilitarian stockings.

Textures: Patterned stockings. Diamonds, herringbones, and waves were the most popular. These styles were very popular during the 60's. Hosiery companies began to buy modern Italian knitting machines which had infinite knitting possibilities that allowed enormous variations.

Modern Stockings
As modern knitting techniques improved and the machinery became more expensive and complicated, stockings evolved through several phases.

Modern machines knit tubes that are boarded, or "heat set" to the shape of the leg; the heel pocket was no longer knit-in as in the 50's. To improve fit, the yarn companies came up with several "improvements" that would forever change the future of classic hosiery.

The first was the stretch stocking, actually a crimped yarn that was knit and packaged unboarded in a limited size range that conformed to the leg when worn. Popular brands were, Cling-Along, Agilon, and Cantrece. The ultimate fit solution that effects the stockings made today, is to add Lycra, another Dupont invention that creates an elasticized stretch stocking that clings to the leg to the knitting yarn. This is used in almost all modern stockings and pantyhose. The effect is to create a support stocking effect. The unfortunate sacrifice is the original sheer stocking effect that is so dear to the true stocking connoisseur.

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